Saturday, June 30, 2018

Hose Mountain - Pancur Gelanggang Waterfall Exploration Ulu Kapit - Part 2 of 2

好山行记 - 加帛内陆,三百米的GELANGGANG 瀑布 - 下篇

I get to know about Hose Mountain when I was searching in YouTube on the mountain expedition in Borneo, and saw one of the search results are "Hose Mountain Expedition" it was a documentary by Mr Stewart McPherson, he has his own expedition company called Redfern Natural History Productions. I actually follow his work few year ago on the pitcher plant of Borneo. He had travel to many parts of Sarawak, Sabah, Borneo than any other local does. 

It trigger my curiosity to search where is this mountain located, so I start to dig deeper, and later found out that it was in Kapit, Sarawak. 

The town of Kapit is currently difficult to access by land, and the only easy way in is by boat. I start to collect information on how to get there, where to stay, and who to contact. It took me quite sometime to collect all the information, I'm very lucky that I get to know a few people who been there before, and manage to collect some valuable information from them.


为什么会知道好山这个地方?话说有一天我在优管找着婆罗洲登山探险,其中一个找寻结果是来自这位“斯图尔特”先生的探险纪录片“好山远征考查记”他与他的团队不远千里的来到了砂拉越的加帛内陆,到了好山进行考查一些罕有的猪笼草。之后他们还去了很多个内陆地方,很多都是本地人都不曾经到过的地方。

就是这样点燃了我的好奇心,开始收集资料。要怎样去?正确地点在那里?要联系谁?交通如何安排?住宿如何安排?食物又如何解决?

我通过很多管道问了很多人,收集了很多资料。很幸运,知道几位朋友曾经到过,便与他们打听一些联系。

I continue on trying to collect more information about this area, and notice that there is a waterfall, a tall one!!! They called it The Pancur Gelanggang Waterfall. 

Fast forward today, I'm finally on my way to the waterfall. Our journey starts at about 8am in the morning, where we wait for a guide to bring us there.

We need to use a 4WD to get there, its about 14 km away form the village I stayed, and took us about 36 mins to reach the trail head.

当我更进一步找资料后,我们要去的地方是好山的南部。那里有一条很高,很漂亮的扇形瀑布,当地名字叫 GELANGGANG 瀑布。

经过九九八十一难,我们终于在路上了。早上八点,我们和向导老伯一起出发。我们必须用四轮驱动车,到哪儿十四公里,三十五分钟,的车程。到达通往瀑布的起点。
As I remember my host Mr Killau told me that no one had been there few years ago, and the nature had claim back their places, and he was right. After we start to trek, some of the grass are taller than us. And my poor guide clearing the way for us with his parang knife. 

我记得我们的房东老伯说瀑布哪儿已经有几年没人去过,他预测肯定杂草丛生。唉😔房东老伯,你猜的对,那里的杂草有些高过人啊。而那个可怜的向导老伯得慢慢的用他的巴朗刀开路。
This is an abandon logging trail, many years back, it was a wide open logging road which lead all the way close to the base of the waterfall.

During our hike, its was drizzling, and it gets heavier over time. I was thinking to myself, there goes my chance to fly my drone over the waterfall. 

The guide lead the way, follow by Loong, Me, my little hiking buddy Mr Anson. At the back we have my team leader Sui Chin, his wife, our driver, and our guide's wife also joined on this fun trip. 😊


这是一条废弃的木山路,很多年前,这条木山路是可以一路通往到瀑布的底层。现在就不行了,大自然已经慢慢的把空旷的道路给索取回来。

当天还下了小雨,然后再从小雨转换成大雨。我心里想完了,这次本来还打算在瀑布旁边飞无人机,那雨这么一来,真是人算不如天算。

向导老伯走在前面,跟着是阿龙哥,然后是我,接着是杨小弟。而后面跟来的有队长水清,队长夫人,向导老伯的夫人,然后最后一位是我们的司机。这次的探险有老有少,很好玩,很开心。一路有说有笑,这样就是我要的旅程。
Just as we reached to a wide open space, our guide point to the front with his parang and told us the waterfall is just in front 😮 He told me that there are still a few waterfall at that area, and he ever climbed to an even higher waterfall, that time he did not bring any rope, so he used the rattan as rope, and slowly climb to the very top of that waterfall. Its very danger, but worth the climb. 

There is a basin area where multiple fall combine into one 😄 this gets me very exited to explore more and to get to that place he told me.

当我们徒步到一个开阔的地方时,老伯用他的巴朗刀高举前面,对我们说那座瀑布就在前面而已。

老向导和我分享他的经历说,那里还有比这个更高的瀑布,而他曾经登上瀑布最高处。当时他没有带绳子,然后他就用藤来当绳子用,攀登上去。是很危险,但是那里很漂亮。

而且另外一带还有五条瀑布从四处流往同一个方向,中间就像一个大水盆装着那些水。他叫我如果有机会,一点要去。我的妈呀,让他那么一讲,就像在给我注射毒针,这是会上瘾的!常常要来咯。
As the fog slowly fade away, I quickly took a picture of the Gelanggang waterfall. As told by my host Mr Killau that we only need 1 hour to reach the waterfall 😓 from my experience with all the guides, first, they seldom keep track of their time while hiking, their form of keeping a record of time is alwaya "agak agak" and second, the pace of their one hour are maybe a few time faster than ours pace. 

Up until this point, we have already hike for almost 2 1/2 hours, and we are yet to reach our destination. This concern me, as we still need to get back to our homestay, and then get back to Kapit using the 4WD. And the road its not safe at all if drive at night. Should I call off my exploration? But I've always want to reach that waterfall...

在我眼前的山脉,那些雾散了一部分,我隐约的再次看到瀑布。赶紧用我的相机拍照!来到这里,我看了时间,看了我的导航记录,我们徒步了两个小时多。而我想起房东老伯告诉我说 “很近的~ 一个小时就可以到了” 根据我以往与这些当地向导的经验,第一,他们很少会记录自己徒步的时间,他们记录的时间都是靠感觉。第二,他们的步行速度,像我们这些城市来的根本都跟不上。他们的一小时,可能是我们的一两倍的时间。

走了不久后,我再次的查看导航记录。走了两个半小时多了,而我们还没到达目的地。这让我开始担心我们的时间,因为待会还得回到老房东的家收拾行李,然后还得开几个小时的木山路回到加帛镇。在木山路,晚上乌漆嘛黑的开车,应该是蛮危险的...

我在想,到底要结束我们的探险吗?但是如果结束的话,很可惜,这么远来到这里,我很想到瀑布....怎么办?
Art of Nature
The vegetation are getting ticker and we only manage to move 2 - 3 meter after a 20 mins of clearing by our guide. 

老伯陆陆续续开路,时间过了廿分钟,我们只是前进了两三米。太慢了,这样不行。
3 hours had passed, and we are still yet to reach. From this point, I was thinking which one are more important, getting lots of nice image to share on social media to earn likes, or the safety of my driver and team. After much consideration, I suggesting to turn back to my team and they all agree. I am worry that we will not have enough time to go back to our homestay and then continue to Kapit town again, as the logging road are very danger and dark to drive at night, and its a long long way to Kapit. 

时间过了三个小时,我们还没有到。好吧,当时我就在想...是一定要到哪儿拍照,然后可以在社交网炫耀来的重要呢?还是团队,司机的安全来的重要?我,选择第二,也与队友们商量了,然后大伙们都同意结束探险,下次再来。
So while turning back, its time for my Mavic to do his job. I boot up my drone, and fly towards the waterfall direction.

在回头的同时,雨停了。雾散了。我赶紧把无人机拿出来,然后飞到瀑布的方向去。
Unfortunately the top part of the waterfall are covered by fog, after my drone reached the waterfall. The distance reading in my drone controller its about 1.8 km, which means we still have about 2km to go until we reach the Gelanggang fall. 

Without further ado, lets enjoy this breath taking waterfall in still image.  
THE PANCUR GELANGGANG WATERFALL in the SOUTHERN HOSE MOUNTAIN, ULU KAPIT

很可惜瀑布的最高处还是被大雾笼罩着,只有下半段看得到。我查看了无人机遥控器,共飞了1.8公里的距离。就是说,如果继续徒步,很可能会要两公里多才能到瀑布。

好了,话不多说,就来看看这雄伟的扇形瀑布吧。
From the reading of my drone controller, the height of my drone that time was about 400 meter from ground, and my drone are yet reached the top of the waterfall 😲 I am really amaze by the height of this waterfall. Its different from the Julan Waterfall, as Julan Fall is a single drop, where this Gelanggang is like a fan shapr, drizzling down its water from above. Amazing and beautiful!!!

This is the treasure of Sarawak, Borneo, its not gold, its not silver, but its the nature, the flora and fauna. 

在我的遥控器里显示的目前高度是接近四百米高,而我的无人机竟然还未飞到瀑布的最高点。我被这瀑布的高度震惊了。这就与祖兰瀑布有好比较,不一样的是祖兰瀑布是单一的往下流,而这是像扇子的形式,慢慢的往下流。各有千秋。
And this is the joy of an exploration its with a team that shares the same interest, and care for each other. Till we meet again my dear Gelanggang waterfall, you will be miss 😘 our next trip here, we will be more prepare. 

但是不管怎样,这就是探险。探险对我来说,目的地不比旅程来到重要。能够和一般志同道合的战友们一起探险,内陆旅游,这是最快乐的事。GELANGGANG瀑布,我们下次再见了!
A big thanks to our driver Charles Killau (the son of my host Mr Killau) for driving us here. We've enjoy the trip very much, and our guide and his wife (at the back of the 4WD) for guide us to this wonderful place. 

右边蓝衣的是我们的司机大哥查尔斯(老房东是他的父亲),而在车后面的是老向导和他的夫人。谢谢感恩他们的用心,我们下次再会。

READ THE COMPLETE STORY HERE
Hose Mountain - Kuching Sibu Kapit Tunoh Mabong (Post 1 of 2)
Hose Mountain - Pancur Gelanggang Waterfall (Post 2 of 2)



Sunday, June 24, 2018

Hose Mountain - Kuching Sibu Kapit Tunoh Mabong - Part 1 of 2

好山行记 - 从古晋到诗巫到加帛到内陆的 TUNOH MABONG - 上篇

My journey starts from Kuchin bus terminal at 10pm, where my fiends and I took the night bus to Sibu. The whole journey is about 391km.

我的行程在晚上10点开始,我和战友们在古晋中央车站用长途巴士一路从古晋到诗巫。路程 391 公里,大概 6 个小时到。
4:00am, reach the jungtion of Sarikei Sibu, where here we will be going right to the town of Sibu, we still have about 60km to go until we reach the Sibu Wharf Terminal. I'm so hungry that time, keep on thinking the kampua noodles at Sibu... yummmmmmy. 

凌晨 4 点,到了泗里街,诗巫路口。我们是向右转到诗巫市,然后再到诗巫的码头乘船。还有 60 公里,大概 1 小时就会到了。肚子好饿,想着诗巫的干盘面 *肚子在敲鼓当中*
5:00am, finally reached the Sibu Wharf terminal. We unload our bagpack form the bus, and went to the coffee shop near the wharf for breakfast. I ordered a plate of kampua noodles, and its very tasty. 

凌晨 5 点,到诗巫码头。我们从巴士取了背包后,就到码头对面一间咖啡店吃早餐。我叫了一盘干盘面吃,很好吃。。。可能是太饿了吧 
5.30am, the express boat ticket counter open. Many people are queuing up for ticket. I quickly follow the crowd, and get our ticket. The earliest departure was 5:45am, and I manage to secure our ticket over the counter.

早餐过后,我到码头去排队买船票。早上 5 点半就开始售卖船票,我赶快买了我们来回的船票。出发时间是 5 点 45 分。赶快叫我的战友们过来搭快艇,要出发咯。
The Rajang river is the longest river in Malaysia at approximately 563 km into Kapit, and then to the South China Sea. We will cruise along the Rajang river to reach the town of Kapit. The boat depart on time, and are fully loaded. First there is a quick stop at the town of Kanowit, I visited this small town here at 2011 (click to read). It is accessible to car. After the all the passenger board the express boat, we star our journey again.

拉让江又名鹅江,是马来西亚的第一大河,也是最长的河流。该河全长约563公里,从依兰山脉途经诗巫、加帛、加拿逸、等城镇,最终注入南中国海。我在 2011 年用车来到了加拿逸(点此阅读),这个小镇麻雀虽小五脏俱全。我的朋友告诉我说,从诗巫能够驱车到加帛,但是建议用四轮驱动车比较好。

我们的快艇在加拿逸停留一会儿载客,然后就继续往下一个地点出发了。
7.45am, another stop will be the town of Song, Song is situated by the banks of the Katibas River, a tributary of the Rajang River.

早上 7 点 45 分,来到了桑坡县。是砂拉越加帛省下辖的其中一个县,这里快艇也是停留了一会儿来载客。桑坡县 90% 的地区是山丘。
7.50am, the wharf of Song. So far there are road access to Song, but you will need a 4 wheel drive car to reach, so the river still remain the main source of medium to connect to the outside world. Passenger who destination is Song, going out form the boat.  

在桑坡,虽然能够用四轮驱动车抵达。但是路况还不是很完善,所以拉让江,船只还是这里的首选交通工具来以外界联系。
8.15am, went out to catch some fresh air. The scenery along the way was amazing, many mountain range, and surprisingly many big power grid tower. Is this from the Bakum dam? Or Baleh Dam?

早上 8 点 15 分,走到快艇的外边看风景。非常凉爽,而且还有很多优美的风景。也有很多的电缆,这些是那里连接来的电,是巴贡水坝?还是巴列水坝吗?
8.45am, reached Kapit town. I'm so happy as this is the first time to reach Kapit town, and this trip also completed my journey to visit every division in Sarawak (click to read). Express boat from Sibu to Kapit is 144km via the Rajang river for 3 hours.

早上 8 点 45 分。终于抵达加帛省了,哎哟我的天啊,坐了整个晚上的巴士,船,待会还有好几个小时的车才能够抵达目的地,要命😓

到了加帛省,也就完成我到砂拉越每一个省份的记录(点此阅读)。诗巫、加帛快艇全长 144 公里,3 个小时。
8.50am, All the luggage are places on the upper deck, so we have to get our backpack by ourselves. To get there, one have to walk the edge of the boat and climb up to the deck. There are limited space for us to go, so my friend Sui Chin and Ah Loong had volunteer to help get all our backpacks. And Loong seems to be very happy doing it 😆

早上 8 点 50 分。所有的背包,行李都是摆放在快艇的顶层甲板。得自己去拿,我的战友阿龙和水清去帮我们拿,要谢谢他们。看到阿龙在甲板上,还跟我比胜利的手势很像很开心。
11.00am Reach the Mujong bridge, and cross the bridge with ease. We are lucky that the bridge had finished constructed at about 3 years ago, else we need to use a boat to cross the Balleh river.

早上 11 点。我们顺利过了 MUJONG 大桥,很幸运在两三年前这座大桥建好了。不然就得用小船只渡这个巴列河了。

I am very surprise with the well maintain logging road. This 4WD drive will take about 130km for 4 hours to reach Tunoh Mabong area, where we will spend a night at. I remember form one of my many logging road experience, the worse road award goes to the Lawas to Bakelalang road, which takes about 8 hours, Read that story here (click to read) 

这条碎石路被木山公司维修的特别好,出乎我的意料。我体验过了非常糟糕的老越、巴卡拉兰碎石路。全程 8 小时,仿佛永远都走不完的山路,摇啊摇,摇到外婆桥。点此阅读
We stop a a short break from the bumpy car ride, and to take some nice scenery photos
虽然路况还好,但是也是要停一停车,休息拍照一下下。
The peaks of the Hose Mountain. This is just like the 5% if the Hose mount, there are still a vast area of mountain range that can be explore.

这是好山的山脉,这里大概只是山脉的区区 5% 罢了,还有很广阔的山脉能够探险。
2.00pm Behind me is the place that we stay for tonight, its an iban village. Some the villages grows their own paddy. A very vast paddy field, the harvest season just over not long ago.  Behind me the local called it Gunung Gajah (Elephant Mount), because the shape looks like an elephant. This is the southern part of the Hose Mountain. 

下午两点。这里就是我们今晚要过夜的地方,是依班人的村庄。这里有稻田,刚收割不久。我的背后是一座叫象山的山脉(是好山的一部分),当地人叫象山顾名思义它的形状就像一头大象。
The place that we stayed belongs to an old man, who worked for the government before, and start his home stay business after retired. The name of the house is called Panggau Danu Mabong.

这是我们的住宿,非常特别。在湖中央的房子。房子的主人是一位退休的政府公务员,而这房子的名字叫 PANGGAU DANU MABONG。
We tour around the Tuoh area, in this village most of them are just old man and young children.
我们就到处走走,这里都是老人与小孩。很少年轻人在村里面。
The Tunoh area is like a basin, surrounded by beautiful mountain range. This place initially the government plant to turn it to become the rice bow of Sarawak, to plant paddy in a large scale, and do export but the project fail. 

这儿 TUNOH 的地形像一个盆地,被无数的山脉包围。国家政府在早期是计划把这里成为国家的饭碗,想大量生产及出产百米,但是计划失败。
Borneo Explorer (me) and my little hiking friend Mr Anson. 
婆罗洲探险者(我)和我的徒步朋友杨小弟
Evening before dinner, we bath at the Tunoh river. On all my outdoor adventure trip, we always get to bath in the river, this is one of my favorite things to do. The water are crystal clear, and super cold. I like it very much.

在晚餐前,我们一群人到了村后的 TUNOH 河冲凉。在我每个探险旅途中,我们都一定会在河边游泳冲凉,我非常喜欢这样,对我来说是一种享受。
Mrs Killau serve us dinner, and the rice that she cooked is from the paddy field. Local rice is always the best, its very very very very very tasty. Just like the one I ate at the Kelabit highland during my Murud trip.

房东太太煮好晚餐咯,这饭是他们这里种植的。当地米饭🍚是我的最爱,它非常,非常,非常,非常好吃。味道就好像我在巴卡拉兰高原吃的白米饭。
For me, I'm not a big eater. Normally I will eat one plate of rice, but with this local rice, two plates please 🌾🌾🌾

我通常都吃一碗饭,但是有本地白饭,就破例吃两碗饭。
After dinner, its time to do some droning. Want to make use of the soft light during sunset, and get some nice footage for my upcoming video. Sitting next to me is the owner of this place Mr Killau himself, and he is busy taking picture of my drone.

晚上过后,是时候乘着夕阳的柔光来飞一飞无人机,拍照录影。坐我旁边的是房东 KILLAU 先生。他看我玩无人机,很好奇,一直用手机拍我的无人机,他很可爱。
Breathtaking mountain range, the southern part of Hose Mountain. There are so many place I can explore here, I must come back again to explore.

这是好山的南部,看着这些山脉真是漂亮,希望有一天我可以登上最高点,在哪儿露营,享受大自然。

Tomorrow I will explore the Pancur Gelanggang waterfall, Mr Killau told us that the places are all covered with dense vegetation, because no one has visit the place for several years. And told us to be careful when we are there, make sure we do not stand at the base of the waterfall, because rocks will fall down from above, as this happen to them before, very long time ago, he bring his family to bath there, and one of his son'e head being hit by a falling rock. 😓😱

Ok my friend I will see you in my next post...

明天我将会去 GELANGGANG 瀑布,房东告诉我说太久没人到过。那里的植物一定密密麻麻的,还有当我们抵达瀑布后,千万别站在瀑布地下冲凉。因为在很多年前,他带这一家大小到那儿玩水,很不幸的有一块石头被瀑布的水冲了下来,击中到他孩子的头。他就是一直交代我们要小心。

我的瀑布探险记会是如何,我们下篇见。

READ THE COMPLETE STORY HERE

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE