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Visiting the Pantu Town Borneo Sarawak with Wilson Chin



The Borneo Explorer's record. I'm traveling around Sarawak, and reached a small town called Pantu. 65 kilometres from Sri Aman (Simanggang) division. I'm standing behind the Chinese school in Pantu.

Read more about Sri Aman click link no.1 and link no.2


Every year, the Pantu Festival will held here, it falls before the Gawai (Harvest festive in Borneo, Sarawak) which is around end of May, and before begining of June. Gawai festival in Borneo, Sarawak falls on the 1st & 2nd of June every year. Close to the Benak festival in Sri Aman.

40 mins drive into the Pantu town, you will cross a river the Semulong River, the Semulong River is famous for the Tapah fish. After that if you drive deeper, you can also reach the Bukit Lingga. Can hike to the summit and witness the magnificient view.


This small town have two row of wooden shops, which operate by the Chinese. Most of the shop sells daily groceries and coffee shop.








Each time when I visit small town in Sarawak, its like I'm traveling back in time. And I get to experience the traditional architectural structure of the building, and the way people do trade. People here are so kind and friendly. 

Exploration The village of Murat on the Skrang River Borneo Sarawak

The Skrang River was one of the first areas settled by Iban immigrants in the 16th to 18th centuries. On my exploring trip to Sri Aman, I saw the signboard saying Skrang river safari, so I decided to go in and have a look.

Upon reaching the village, I can see a yellow colored river next to the village, and a lot of cars parked there. Only I notice that it was the harvest festive, and all of the people went back to their longhouse for celebration. I saw two kids riding a bike there. I stop them to ask about what do they have on upstream, the kids told me that there are many traditional Iban longhouses along the Skrang River.















Borneo Explorer was here ;) Wilson Chin

Exploration to Batu Nabau, Snake Stone Valley at Engkilili, Borneo

Unwritten history about Engkilili




Engkilili town is 156.1 kilometres east-south-east of the state capital Kuching, my friend had shown me a picture of a stone in a cylinder shape, and have some yellow stripes on the rocks (in the end they told me is was the locals who colored it). On one end of the stone, the shape looks like the snake head. The locals people called it the Batu Nabau, the Chinese called it the Spirit Snake valley.

The word Engkilili belongs to a name of a tree which grows there, the tress glow along the river. The Engkilili trees are mostly discovered in the Engkilili, and Lubok Antu area. So with this special gift, the people just name the town to be the same as the tree. The river plays an important roles back in the old day as the only source to connect to other small towns in Sarawak. 

Another name for Engkilili for old generation of Chinese is called "上梯頭", means "up the staircase" there are such name is because back in the old days, The coal miner (Chinese, Hakka dialet) workers from Kalimantan, Indonesia traveling via river to the Engkilili town to work and settle down, they build staircase to go up the wharf, this is to let the trader and worker to easily unload their stuff. 

And later the Chinese (Teo Chew dialet) traders came for business. And will always said they need to go "up the staircase" to unload their stock. So that is why its called "up the staircase", and later the locals had build another new wharf, therefore the name "up the staircase, down the staircase" (下梯頭) was born.

How to get there?

  • First, go to the Engkilili town, there is a welcome signboard on your left. Then, there are new shops lot upon entering the town. You will see a Chinese temple on your left.
  • Then, drive into the town again, and you will see the old wooden shoplots which runs by the Chinese there.
  • After that, turn to your right, and drive all the way in, you will see an arch which will lead you to the Malay village.
  • Continue to drive in again, and you will reach the end of the tar road, and continue with the stone, and dirt road.
  • Drive all the way in for about 15 mins, and you will see a nice concrete bridge. This is the Bukong Nyalau village, there is a longhouse near the bridge.
  • You may park your car beside the house just before the bridge. The house belongs to a friendly Iban people. then ask for direction.
  • Its easy to search, upon entering the jungle, the local puts up a signboard at the entrance there, to remind visitor what to avoid when at the snake stone area. So please respect the rules there.

Stories about the Snake Stone (Batu Nabau)

According to the information I had, the "snake" measure at around nine meter in length and two meter in diameter. There are a few version regarding the snake stone, the Chinese, Malay, and Iban people each have different version.
The tale which told to me by a Chinese:
The giant snakes are from Limbang, but only 6 of them reached Engkilili, the biggest one is the female, and the fierce one is the male snake which still stays in Limbang.
The female snake after reach Engkilili, it wanted to craw into the hole, but its too small for it to go in, that is why it just stay outside.
Not long after that, she lays a few eggs, and some small snakes was born, thus can see a few smaller snake stone beside the big one.

Another tale which I found goes like this:
The tale regarding Batu Nabau resurfaces after a Siamese man from Kuala Lumpur made a claim on the existence of a huge snake that turned into stone as he doubled his efforts to locate it.

With the assistance of the local residents in the Sri Aman District, he located Batu Nabau as dreamt. Together with the local residents, he painted the boulder and cleared the areas around it.

The man’s tale was published in the local newspaper.The tale did not end there as Jawi-like alphabets were said to have been found in the central portion of Batu Nabau. The alleged Jawi alphabets of alif, lam, nun, mim and sinwere said to have been arranged in a reverse order and separated from one another.

The discovery was made by one of the local residents who had visited the area after reading an article about Batu Nabau in the local newspaper.

What Else to see after the Stone Snake?

After I visit the stone snake, I drive back to the wooden shop again. And visited the suspension bridge which connect the village opposite the river to the town. Its very windy while standing in the middle of the bridge.

Oh... I forgot to tell you, Engkilili also have big ass rat, just look at this cage!!!

Visiting Fort Alice at Sri Aman (Simanggang), Borneo

 
Sri Aman is a market town and port, and the capital of Sri Aman District and Sri Aman Division in Sarawak, Borneo.
 
Sri Aman is famous for the benak, or tidal bore, of the Batang Lupar River. The tidal bore comes in from the river mouth and fills up the river very rapidly in the course of about 10 minutes.
Another singnature building here will be the Fort Alice, I was here last time (click to read), and it was still close from public. But today 2015 May onward the Fort had become a museum and its open for public to visit.

Some story about the Fort Alice

The 150-year-old fort built in 1864 in Sri Aman – then called Simanggang – is a legacy of the white rajahs who ruled Sarawak.
Simanggang was the favourite abode of Sir Charles Brooke, the nephew of James Brooke, Sarawak’s first white Rajah.
STF Heritage Development Committee chairman Lim Kian Hock said Charles Brooke joined the Sarawak civil service in 1852. As the Tuan Muda, Charles was installed Resident Officer in Lundu.
The Sultan of Brunei had ceded the territory of the Batang Layer, Skrang and Saribas rivers to James Brooke in 1853.
Charles moved to Lingga to take over from the Resident who was killed by Iban Warrior Rentap.
A year later (1854), he moved to Skrang and in 1864 established his headquarters at Simanggang, where he started building the fort and the Astana with the help of the local communities.
It was here that Charles held court every morning, administering justice to a string of Iban and Malay litigants and received courtesy calls from Dayaks from the ulu and beyond. Both criminal and civil cases were considered and recorded.
Tuan Muda Charles Brooke’s day finished at eight every night when the fortmen would pull up the drawbridge, hollering up and down the river: “Oh ha, oh ha, oh ha; pukal dilapan tau udah behuni (eight o’clock has sounded); tangga udah tarek (the bridge is pulled up); pintu udah kunchi (the doors are locked); orang enda tau niki agi-i-i (people are not allowed to come up anymore)”.
When Rajah James Brooke left Sarawak for the last time on Sept 24, 1863, Charles was made his deputy to run Sarawak on his behalf.
On the death of James Brooke, Charles was proclaimed second Sarawak Rajah on Aug 3, 1868. He was sad to leave Simanggang for Kuching.


The Simanggang fort was named Fort Alice after his consort Ranee Margaret Alice.
Author Lili de Windt tells a beautiful story of how in the absence of Charles Brooke, they managed to hold the fort with one canon, a dog and a mate against a flotilla of boats carrying tribal warriors.
The tradition Charles established in Simanggang lived on at Astana Kuching such as the Brooke tradition of firing the canon at Fort Margherita Kuching at eight every night until 1968.
The revival of Fort Alice as Sri Aman Heritage Museum will remind of those days, and be an enduring experience for generations of Sarawakians.

 

The structure was built on a strategic hilltop position and had a commanding view of the river with cannons bearing down to stop any threats coming from upriver. It played a major role in suppressing piracy, slavery, and head-hunting, while encouraging trade and expanding the authority of the Rajah. Fort Alice was the Simanggang administrative center, housing various government departments and even a prison.
 


The fort there three boats are on display — a Dayak war boat, a Malay sampan and a Chinese trading boat.
 


Two wooden staircases lead to the first floor. The upper floor consists of a courtroom, recreated based on the one found at Fort Sylvia and Baram Fort; a small office separated by waist-height baluster; the officer’s bedroom with 19th century reconstructed furniture and two bedrooms for visitors behind the court.



Along the long corridor, story panels on Fort Alice and the settlement history of Sri Aman have been set up for visitors.

I must say the British are really good at selecting the location to build the fort, there are several fort in Sarawak, and all are being place in a very strategic location.

I had gain some knowledge after visiting this place, and hope that after this being setup as a museum, it will be able to benefit our future generation to know more about history, and make some good thing about their knowledge.