December 14, 2025. I need to get this down while the feeling of the river is still fresh in my bones. Today wasn’t just a hike; it was a raw exploration into the veins of the Bengoh Range.
The Monolith and the Mirror
I stood at the base of the Bengoh Dam, looking up at that massive wall of concrete. It’s always humbling to see where the human world ends and the wilderness begins. We loaded our gear onto the boat, my orange pack, Kerry’s green one, and Nizam’s bright yellow.
The 30-minute boat ride across the reservoir felt like crossing a mirror. The water was so still, reflecting the mist-heavy peaks of Sarawak. We were heading for the delta of Sungai Baban, a place that feels completely detached from the rest of the world.
The Sponge-Sand Delta
The boatman dropped us off at the river’s mouth, a vast sandy basin that shouldn't feel the way it does. Every time I stepped forward, the ground gave way with a strange, porous resistance. It felt exactly like walking on a giant sponge. It’s disorienting at first, the earth is soft, damp, and alive beneath your boots. It was the first sign that Sungai Baban plays by its own rules.
Following the Amber Vein
As we pushed deeper, the landscape tightened. The river here is a pure blackwater system. I watched the water swirl around the rocks, it’s the color of strong tea, stained deep amber by the forest’s tannins.
The colors of our group stood out sharply against the emerald green of the canopy and the dark, wet stone: Nizam was ahead, his yellow backpack a moving marker against the shadows. Kerry moved steadily with his green pack, almost blending into the riverside ferns. And me, bringing up the rear in my orange gear, keeping an eye on the line.
Scaling the Cascades
The exploration turned vertical quickly. This wasn't a trail; it was a scramble. We were scaling massive, moss-slicked boulders and navigating the tiered waterfalls that define Sungai Baban.
I can still feel the spray of the cascades on my face. There were moments where the rock walls leaned in so close I could touch both sides of the canyon. The geology here is incredible, ancient, layered stone carved out by centuries of floods. We climbed until our lungs burned, pushing through chutes of rushing water and finding deep, still pools that looked like liquid obsidian.
Looking back on my hike...
Sitting here now, my boots are still caked in that delta sand. The Bengoh Range has a way of stripping everything back to the basics: breath, grip, and the next step. For me the Sungai Baban is a very enjoyable and easy trek, the silence of those upper falls is worth every ounce of effort.
I’ll need to remember the way the light hit the amber water at noon. It’s a side of Sarawak that most people will never see.