Chasing Waterfalls in Sarawak: The Raw Beauty of Wong Engkarah

 The world has a way of drawing you in, doesn’t it? Especially when it’s a world painted in a thousand shades of green, humming with the unseen, and whispering promises of discovery. For me, that pull led to Engkilili, a name that now resonates with the very beat of my own journey.




I remember the initial stretches of our trek. The endless rows of oil palm trees, their fronds swaying with a manufactured rhythm. It’s a familiar sight across this landscape, a testament to human enterprise. But even here, an ancient longing stirred within me. I knew there was more, something wilder, beyond this cultivated facade. We were heading deeper, leaving the structured world behind, one determined step at a time.


The transition was gradual, then sudden. The orderly plantations gave way to a patchwork of rice paddies, shimmering in the tropical light. We navigated makeshift log bridges, each creaking plank a reminder of how truly off-the-beaten-path we were. This wasn’t a paved tourist trail; this was real. The air grew thicker, cooler, carrying the scent of damp earth and exotic blossoms.





My senses sharpened. Every rustle in the undergrowth, every splash in the shallow streams, hinted at a life teeming around us. I found myself pausing, drawn to the intricate details the jungle offered. A cluster of vibrant red berries, like jewels scattered on a branch. That peculiar seed, half-black, half-sunny yellow, almost like a miniature fried egg crafted by nature. And then, the starburst bloom, a delicate explosion of white, utterly alien and beautiful. These weren’t just plants; they were characters in this unfolding story, each with its own quiet mystery.






Our path soon merged with the very veins of the forest, its rivers and streams. This wasn't just walking alongside water; it was in it. The cool current against my legs was a welcome relief from the humidity, a living, breathing element guiding us forward. There were moments of camaraderie, shared laughter as we helped each other across deeper sections, the river’s song a constant companion.


The further we delved, the more the jungle closed in, transforming into a magnificent green labyrinth. This was raw, untamed Borneo. The air grew heavy with the scent of damp earth and unseen blossoms. We were no longer just walking; we were pushing through, climbing over gnarled roots, scrambling up muddy inclines that tested every muscle. There’s a certain satisfaction in that kind of effort, a primal connection to the earth beneath your feet. I found myself breathing deeper, my mind clearing with each challenging step. This was where the real adventure lay, where comfort zones dissolved and genuine discovery began.





And then, we heard it. Not a roar, but a distant, persistent whisper that grew steadily louder, the unmistakable voice of falling water. My anticipation soared. This was it. This was what we came for. We pushed through one last curtain of foliage, and there it was: Wong Engkarah.

It wasn’t just a waterfall; it was a sanctuary. Water cascaded down ancient rock faces, carving intricate patterns into the stone over millennia. The air was cool and filled with a fine mist, dancing with the sunlight that pierced through the dense canopy above. Rays of light, like ethereal spotlights, illuminated the spray, creating rainbows that shimmered and vanished with every breath of wind. It felt almost spiritual, a sacred space hidden deep within Engkilili.





Sitting there on the moss-covered rocks, the spray from Wong Engkarah cooling my skin, I felt a profound sense of clarity. The exhaustion in my legs was real, but so was the peace. We spend so much of our lives looking at screens, following paved roads, and living by a schedule. But out here, in the deep folds of Engkilili, time doesn't exist. There is only the rhythm of the water and the pulse of the forest.


I looked at my gear, the mud-caked boots, the damp backpack, the camera that captured only a fraction of this magic, and I realized that the "reward" wasn't just the waterfall itself. It was the transition. It was the grit of the river trekking, the uncertainty of the log bridges, and the small, quiet wonders like those "fried egg" seeds we found along the way.

Sarawak never ceases to amaze me. Just when you think you’ve seen it all, it whispers a name like Engkilili and dares you to find its heart. And every time, I’ll say yes.

Until the next trail, Wilson

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